Pt. Labatt Sea Lions

 

Pt. Labatt

On the other side of Baird Bay is Pt. Labatt, the home of the largest sea lion colony on the Australian mainland. Couldn’t drive past that one.

There is a viewing platform high above the shoreline, perched on the cliff face. From there you can see the sea lions lying about and frolicking in the water. We arrived early in the morning, most of them were just lying about, still waking up. Some of the young ones were up and about annoying the adults and having a swim. Another highlight on our travels.

Travelling on, we followed the coast into other small bays and beach side villages, till we finally reached Streaky Bay, the largest town of the area. There we looked about and got a few supplies as Ceduna wasn’t that far away where we would resupply and consider our next move.

Wudinna to Baird Bay

 

We had decided to hang about in SA till WA allowed us in without 2 weeks quarinteening. So southward to the coast it was. SA was already down to a low risk state according to WA, only one more step to go.

We hit the highway at Wudinna and promptly checked out the town. It had a laundromat and a large vehicle car wash as well as a pub and RV park to get water, we were set.

First it was do some washing, dropped off Din at the laundry and went to the car wash and spent a small fortune cleaning the mud and salt off Ned.

Then checked out the RV park for a camp, had a look, it was OK but we talked ourselves into getting a room at the hotel/motel for the night.

Rested and long showers later, we headed out of town.

Southwest to Port Kenny on the coast. A sleepy little town, one servo/shop and not much else. Called into the servo and asked about Venus Bay Conservation Park Down the road,access and stuff. The lady in the shop looked out at the truck and said “I wouldn’t recommend it with that, most lickely get stuck.”

Didn’t argue with her and bought a bag of hot chips and continued on. Her words did make me a bit aprensive to go that way, but Din as usal was all for giving it a go, after all, that lady didn’t know what Ned was capable of and we could always turn back. So into the Park we went.

The track winds around the Bay and was no match for Ned. Although you could see in places if it was a bit wetter the track could become very boggy. With deep wheel ruts off the side where others had come to greif.

Made it all the way to the bottom edge of the cape where there is a vermin proof fence and a large gate to go through. Ned however could not fit through. A disappointment, would have loved to go all the way out to the point, but we went down to the shoreline at that point and camped the night.

A short way back was a road out which we took, and further up that road was one that went back to the coast on the other side of the conservation park.

It came out on a cliff face overlooking the coastline. Spectacular views of the rugged coast in both directions. A way over we could see a track disappearing over the hill, and it was too interesting not to find and follow. From our maps and GPS we could determine the track should go all the way to the next little fishing village of Baird Bay around the coast, maybe.

Off we went, and found the track. A slow, bumpy, but solid footing underneath us, we proceeded along the cliff edge.

Some hours later we hadn’t gone a great distance but were spoilt with magnificent views of the coast beneath these jagged towering cliffs.

Perched high above the ocean we selected a spot to stop for the night.

 Next morning we continued on and finally came to the back of Baird Bay, only thing was there was a large sand dune to cross to get to the village and it was the only way to get there. Tyres right down and into low range 4x4, with a short run up Ned launched himself at the dune. I was a bit doubtful if he could do it given the steepness of it, but without skipping a beat he powered on up the incline and reached the top with hoots and squeals of laughter from us, good old Ned.

Ceduna and beyond

 

Ceduna

After scraping off most of the mud caked on to Ned, we headed to the coast and the town of Ceduna.

The highway was damp and rain was on the way. Not a bad thing as it washed off most of the remaining mud.

Found the supermarket in town and stocked up again. Fuel next and water. A couple of ks out of town we found an out of the way campsite and settled in for the night.

Our Goal at this time was to cross into Western Australia across the Nullarbor Plain. After some reserching while we had phone signal it was apparent this wouldn’t be so easy, as WA had shut it’s border with SA, we couldn’t cross till SA was deemed a very low risk state re: Covid. This could take up to 28 days if the situation in SA stayed stable.

Another way was to go through the Northern Territory, which was very low risk, according to WA. But we would have to spend at least two weeks in NT before crossing into WA.

We decided to head up into the Gawler ranges near where we had come through the Lake Gairdner road to weigh up our options.

Minnipa, south of Wirrulla, where we had come out on the highway, is the next road leading into the Gawler Ranges, so we headed there. Just out of town is Tcharkuldu Rock, a camp ground which is easer to spell than it is to say.

A pile of huge rocks scattered over a rock formation which had been pushed up out of the earth many millions of years ago.

The resent rain was evident in the surrounding country with green, the depth of we hadn't seen for some time.

A beautiful place, and quiet.

Spent a couple of days there and moved on.

Just up the road was another rock, Pildappa Rock. It was on our way so we called in.

 This rock is likened to Wave Rock in WA and it is similar. We liked it so much we stayed another couple of days.

The Organ Pipes

At the entrance to the Gawler Ranges National Park, there is a side road leading to a place called the Organ Pipes. Never wanting to leave any road untraveled, we turned down it.

The Organ Pipes are a set of rock formations in a small valley, after a short walk from the car park they appear on the hillside. A rock terrace a little further on glisten in the sunlight with water trickling down it.

Back to the Ranges road and Old Pany Homestead was our next call in. A well preserved slice of the pioneering days, with story boards telling of the various aspects of daily life back then.

Back on the road and we were joined by an emu running along side, then without warning, as they do, he swerved in front of us and crossed the road. Fortunately I was anticipating this and he crossed without harm to himself or us.

With an overnight camp at Waganny campground, it was off again in the morning. Shearers Quarters was next on our agenda. This sheep property was operating up to 2003 when it was acquired by SA parks. They have preserved the shearing shed its equipment and the quarters the men used to live in. Very interesting to look around.

 

Now we were on the road out of the park and on our way back to the Highway. Except, one more detour, we came to a turn off going to Sturt Lake. Why not? The road skirted this salt lake, we went for a look.

Good clay road to start then becoming sandy, not a problem.

A sign directed us to a place called The Coloured Rocks, ended up at a small turnaround at the lakeside. On the shoreline were rock shelves and fragments displaying an assortment of colours.

After a wander, we decided this was our camp for the night.

In the morning, we carried on around the lake. Not too far up the track the sand got softer and the track got narrower. A couple of times we couldn’t go under overhanging trees and so had to find a way around. Also scraping through a lot of narrow patches we had a new set of pinstripes on the side of ned and a new garden on the roof.

With the tyres down and in low 4x4 we crawled along, till at one spot , ned stopped and stayed put. A bit of digging and filling the wheel ruts, as the diffs were dragging in the sand as the ruts were so deep, we finally crawled out.

Being about half way around the lake, it was a case of keep going, it can’t get much more difficult, can it?

So a bit further on a flat area next to the lake came up and we set up camp and I cleaned off the rooftop garden and checked everything else was OK, it was.

Ended up staying a couple of days there, the first afternoon a dad emu and his 4 kids came around in front and wandered about.

A lovely visit.

Also a couple of ring neck parrots landed in the tree in front of us and frolicked about for a while. These are the moments in these isolated places we love.

Tale Of Two Camels

 Just a little sideline. While we were visiting our friend Deb in the east of S.A. , a local newspaper wanted to do a story on her. Being publicity shy as she is, Deb was reluctant. Din offered to write a story for her to submit and Deb agreed. It had not been published by the time we left, so here it is for your enjoyment.

A Tale of Two Camels

Coco and Ziggy are siblings from another mother. They are the third and last generation of Debi Robinsons wagon trekking camels. The camels have done over 20,000 kilometres across this sunburnt land.

It all started when Debi was 5 years old on a station in the Northern Territory. A cloud of dust out on the horizon slowly became bigger as the day wore on.

In between lessons, jobs and dinner she would race out and sit on the top step of the Homestead. It was exciting as visitors were scarce.

Late that afternoon Angus Scobie arrived with his cart and donkeys. He travelled from station to station doing leather work and shoe horses in preparation for the big muster.

A light was lit and she knew would grow up and get a wagon and donkeys and be a Hawker.

The years went by and Debi’s dream stayed with her but no longer with donkeys or being a Hawker but as a camel trekker and Adventurer.

She built a 20ft wagon, gathered and trained 12 camels, 5 children, 4 chooks, 2 dogs and a Nanny Goat named ‘Sheep’.

Many adventures, good times and hard times, but they covered many kilometres. Working across country getting fencing jobs or other work offered for replenishing of supplies. Museums are of a particular interest of Debi and the saving and restoring of the old ways.

Her children are all independent and capable adults who have followed their dreams, passions and professions.

Debi Coco and Ziggy have now downsized pulling a much smaller wagon Debi rebuilt from ruin on its way to the dump.

The wagon ‘The Overlander’ is over 100 years old. This wagon once belonged to Edgar Scobie the father of Angus. He delivered mail and stores on the OOdnadattta Birdsville and other Tracks. Finally this wagon was put out of business by Tom Kruse and motorised transport.

This wagon has done many treks with Debi Coco Ziggy and Thackery the dog, laughingly said to be a cross between a Chihuahua and a Swan. He is the size of a big black bear.

Thackerys job in camp is to gather firewood, clean Coco and Ziggys eyes and ears, when they ask sweetly. A loyal loving and protective friend. He sits shot-gun up on the duckboard of wagon.

They have now found Shangri-La in the Mallee. The camels have space to roam about chewing choosing not to go too far, for too long from the wagon Debi and Thackery.

A stone cottage in need of repair and restoration for Debi to get to her saddle making, leather work, blankets and everything camel.

Volunteers rally to support this legendary lady and her camels. The house has started to take shape and they are proud that Debi now has a Vanity Basin with hot and cold running water.

There is bets going on amongst her friends about weather or not Debi will ever leave her wagon to sleep in the cottage. Doubt it.

Life is great for these two amazing camels with great stories to tell. They are the last of this legendary hard working camel herd family from the back of Alice.

Lake Gairdner Road

 

Lake Gairdner.

Arriving back at Kingoonya we topped up the water tanks and fuel, then

 proceeded south to Lake Gairdner and Gawler Ranges.

Having been recently graded, the road was refreshingly smooth compared to

 what we had been travelling on.

Along the side of the road were scatterings of wild flowers. Large patches of

 Sturts desert pea at fairly close intervals, as well as the now familiar wombat

 homes.

First point of interest came to was the old Camel Camp Tank, A water tank

 set up with a low roof over it, specifically built to channel rain water into the

 tank.

Up a track leading away from the track, which beckoned us to follow it, was a

 terrific view of a small lake, hidden behind a hill.

After exploring, as we do, it was back to the main road and onward south.

Next stop, Skull Tank Camp. Another water tank with roof, set beside a dry

 salt lake. Found a track heading to the lake and set up for the night.

Kept travelling two days later. Obviously the grader had not long been on this

 road, lovely to drive on. Skull tank is at an intersection where you can go

 south east or south west, We went south west. Some time later we came to a

 gap where the road goes between two small lakes, and on the southern side a

 track beckoned us again. At the end of the track was a nice camp spot, so, not

 wanting to waste it, we stopped and set up camp. Another couple of days,

 spent relaxing and cooking up a roast meal and cake for desert.

While flying the drone for a view of the lake and campsite, it suddenly

 wouldn’t respond to my controls. Thinking back, I had not set the home point

 properly, that is, where it automatically returns to if signal is lost. Well, I had

 lost signal with it and it immediately took off to it’s last known home point

 which was some 50 ks north. Luckily there was a tall tree in its path and last I

 saw of it, it was scooting behind a stand of trees a long distance away. After a

 long and frantic search I found it at the base of said tree. Fortunately only

 one prop was damaged and all else was working fine. Tough little bugger.

 Note to self, do pre flight checks thoroughly.

Travelling again, we came to Hiltaba Nature Reserve. A former sheep

 property, sold to a conservation group and offering camp sites and

 SHOWERS. After pulling up at the former homestead and enquiring about a

 camp and shower we were directed to a shower block down the road and so

 off we went. It was a gas heated shower and Din went in first. After a short

 interval she stuck her head out the door and said, no hot water. I went to the

 water unit and inspected it, After tapping the bottles and trying to light the

 unit, came up with the conclusion it was out of gas. Just then the manager

 came walking down and asked if all was OK. Din just looked at him, very

 restrained I do say, and I informed him of the problem. After a long attempt

 at getting it going he conceded it might be out of gas and invited us up to the

 homestead to use that shower.

After a wonderful shower and chat, off we went to Pretty Point campground

 for the night.

Refreshed and rested we moved off the next day. About 50k before Wirrulla,

 where the road meets the Eyre Highway, you cross the edge of a couple of

 lakes, having had good rainfall lately the road was wet and boggy.

We slipped and slid our way for most of that 50k, but finally came out at the small town on the highway. Went to the little shop and celebrated with a pie and ice cream.